CROSS CANADA MOTORHOME TRIP 2019 – NOVA SCOTIA

Our campsite is at a KOA just outside West Halifax. Beautiful campground that we were fortunate to get into with the long weekend as it is a large campground but totally booked.

This is a view from the rear of our RV at our fire pit. A fellow came by this evening and introduced himself, to tell us that he would be setting up his rod behind our unit. I asked him what he was catching and he said six foot eels. They catch and release. I told him I would check his rod but I was not taking it off the hook.

They rent canoes here and so we thought about doing that sometime tomorrow if not raining. Mrs. Hawes says she is not going near the water now.

Our repairs today did not go well as we started with our levellers alarming to our levellers not working at all and that took eight hours. It was a gong show. No wrist slitting and we move on. Halifax weather has not been good, lots of rain so hopefully it improves.

Our 7 year old grandson Riley, when shown on Google Maps where we are, told his mother that we are near Meteghan, NS. He learned in grade one about the cultures in three communities, Meteghan, Saskatoon and Iqaluit. So, we are going to be within 45 minutes of Meteghan and are going to stop and take some pics and we are passing thru Saskatoon on the way back, but told him that we are not going to Iqaluit. He said oh, too bad, cause they have polar bears there but also have buffalo that trample people, so we better not go. Well, that decided that for sure.

Nope! Another rainy, cloudy day, but it is what it is. Therese, our niece, put us in contact with a friend of hers here, Jeff and he let us know that there is an empty commercial lot a block from his place in Dartmouth and a two block walk to the ferry to Halifax. Perfect! We drove down to the waterfront and parked the motorhome and as there was a ton of fog, we decided to go to a nearby farmer’s market until the fog lifted.

Our purchases at the market. Thrifty me – two screwdrivers for $3. Spender Marg – 3 sacs of jewellery for $65

We had a good chat with the couple that make the jewellery as they motorhomed across North America for a solid 2 years, so lots of stories to share. They also gave us a few tips for Halifax stuff. This guy buys glass from Italy, cuts it on a bandsaw, grinds and polishes it and his wife paints it and it is full time for them for the summer months. Nice stuff!

So we took the short ferry ride across the bay at the enormous cost of $2.50. Cheapest activity on the entire trip.

View of the ferry terminal on the Halifax side.
Theodore Too is a tugboat harbour ride for kids. The narrator brings the harbour to life as the kids colour in the harbour as Theodore introduces his friends from around the harbour with plenty of sing along songs

After docking, we decided to check out a pub on the waterfront that was recommended.

The Old Triangle Irish Pub
Irish Pub fair with Celtic music. Woo hoo!
Not sure, but I think the big one was mine! Moosehead Ten Penny Amber
Lobster and scallop crepes. She ate it all
Irish stew of course

Next, we have a Halifax Harbour Hopper tour that takes in some of the sites of downtown Halifax along with a brief harbour tour in the same vehicle.

This is our amphibious vehicle that drives right down the boat launch into the water. They were bought from the US military who paid a million dollars each initially for them. Secret weapon.

A few of the sites:

Citadel Hill in Halifax is the highest point and houses Fort George. It was built in 1749 and is star shaped with a 12 foot deep ditch all around it. Tough to overtake and was built to defend the port but was never attacked other than native raids on a few occasions. The roof is grass for camouflage. Looks like they need some goats up there.

Angus L McDonald Bridge built by the same architect as the Lions Gate Bridge. Now a toll bridge.

St. Mary’s Basilica with the tallest granite spire in North America. Original wood version built in 1784.This one was consecrated in 1899.

Jeff told us a legend about the McDonald bridge that links Halifax to Dartmouth. Apparently the new bridge is the 3rd such bridge linking the two areas. This area was Mi’kmaq territory and did not want a bridge linking the two areas. They cursed the first bridge and said that there would be 3 bridges but none would survive. The First two were destroyed and now they make people pay to go on it. No chancy! That native stuff is kind of powerful. Besides I am too cheap and will drive miles to get around it.

It was raining after the Harbour Hopper so we stopped at the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic on the walk back as we had heard that it was quite good. Lots of info and a very good stop.

Pirates fate called gibeting. Captain Kidd met this fate.
I guess Robert Louis Stevenson was the only one to associate pirates with parrots. Who knew!
Many exhibits of types of maritime boats.
Big big section on the Titantic with lots of memorabilia from the ship. Boats from Halifax were summoned to the SOS but took four days to get there. They were a salvage operation only of bodies and debris. Many of the dead are buried in Halifax cemeteries and some are yet to be identified which seems odd.

Halifax is the largest naval base in Canada and many of the ships are stationed in the harbour. The MV Asterix, a naval supply ship docks here, and is the ship that was recently buzzed by two Chinese jets in the South China Sea.

We took the ferry back to Dartmouth and visited Jeff for a drink in his condo. Some views from his condo.Early morning tour tomorrow so we will drive down to the empty lot tomorrow morning and leave the motorhome there and return to it later to camp the night. Here is hoping we do not get a knock on the door at two in the morning. Praying for sunshine as it has been a while since we have seen it.

No sunshine again. Maritime weather is not good and talking to locals, they take it in stride, like it is typical. I guess it is more important as a tourist and camper.

We met our tour guides and a brief city tour and then off to Peggy’s Cove, which is 40 km away but part of Halifax. And, there are only 30 permanent residents. It was and still is, a fishing village but tourism reigns supreme here. Swissair flight 111 crashed here in 1998, 5 km east, with a loss of life of 229 or all aboard. The residents of Peggy’s Cove were the first responders to the crash. A small memorial outside the town is there in rememberance.

This piper knew where to play. He was good.

Peggy’s Point Lighthouse built in 1868
Some of the landscape
Marg with the lobster fisherman
A look at the town

Back to actual Halifax and to Citadel Hill

The ditch around the Fort. Quite tough to attack this guy.
This highland guard(re-enacted) did a gun demo and fired off three rounds from this 700 caliber rifle. Blanks but very loud
They go thru a ceremony every hour of changing the highland guards.

After this tour, we had them drop us off at Alexander Keith’s Brewery for lunch and a brewery tour.

This is the guy, Alexander Keith. He is an icon in Halifax and really started the whole beer thing here. The brewery was founded in 1820 and Alexander Keith was the mayor of Halifax on three separate occasions. He emigrated from Scotland in 1817.
A few beer tastings and a lot of fun. They explained the actual process of beer making and the equipment.
Even some Celtic music for atmosphere

We tried to get to Pier 21, which is the Immigration terminal in Halifax and operated from 1928 to 1971 and houses the Immigration Museum. We got there 45 minutes before closing, so only had an opportunity to visit the Homecomings Lab. I wanted to check out the arrival of my grandparents from Iceland and the lady there was unable to trace the arrival but gave me the service records for my grandfather in WW1 and info to follow up online. Very worthwhile stop.

Wore out, so back to Dartmouth by fairy to rest in our deluxe campground before going out for supper.

No hook ups here. After dinner, we came back and a police car was parked beside us with an officer inside. No action, so he must have been napping here

You can rent this guy or simply buy it for 59,500,000 euros, as it is for sale.

Off to Lunenburg tomorrow. The Bluenose 2 is in Toronto, so bummer.

We were going to go to Africville to the museum but it did not open until 10:00, so we are off before 8:00. Africville, is the memorial to the black community in Halifax. The reason for the memorial is the atrocities inflicted on them by Halifax. Very sad. A narrative is available online with Canadian Encyclopedia

We took the country route and stopped in Mahone Bay which was founded in 1754. Now it is a tourist destination but boat building still goes on.

Anglican Church built in 1885
Mahone Bay waterfront
Some of the old architecture

This town has a legend about Oak Island, where treasure was buried in the series of underground passages on the island. Captain Kidd was one potential source of the treasure but no one knows. Many thousands of dollars have been spent to unearth it but the mystery remains. There is a real narrow causeway leading to it that I chickened out on at the last minute. It was narrow, made of dirt and the wind was blowing hard. Besides, the rumour is that the place is haunted!

We went to Lunenburg and checked into our campground and took a walk around the town.

Lunenburg is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and big tourist destination now. It is a port town on the south shore of Nova Scotia and dates back to 1753. The population is only 2500 or so and have moved on from the Cod moratorium of 1962 to tourism and other activities.

A distillery right in town that we passed on our walk to the waterfront. Stopped in and tried a couple of their brandy samples
Row upon row of historical houses like this.

On the waterfront, they have the Fisheries Museum of the Atlantic. Wow, tons of info and exhibits and spent over three hours there

Part of the exhibit. This ship would be a French ship from the 17th century that came to cod fish with line fishing from the side.
Part of the museum was an aquarium. These are lake trout
A side trawler that would have replaced the schooners. They could hold 300,000 pounds of cod. A fellow that worked on one of them for years went over the entire workings of letting out the nets to us.
This is one of the last schooners to fish as they were replaced by the trawlers. The schooners carried usually 12 dories that were dispatched to deep line fish with a few hundred hooks.
Sleeping quarters in the schooner. This bunk slept 2 men. Not it, for the inside!
This is a 2 man dory unloading their catch onto the schooner. They would go out as much as a mile and a half from the ship. Often got lost or run over by other ships in the fog.
This is the schooner in her prime

The real pride of this town is the Bluenose, which, as I mentioned is in Toronto at the Tall Ship show. There was an entire section of the museum dedicated to her. The original Bluenose was built in 1921 and was a celebrated fishing and racing schooner that was a great source of pride for all Nova Scotians. She never lost a race! The name Bluenose was taken from the name given Nova Scotians as they grew a potato that had a blue interior that was slender and long like a nose.

A model of The Bluenose, or check a Canadian dime.

The original was wrecked in 1946 and the one we have now is the Bluenose II, a replica

Lots of choices for dinner tonight with many receiving 4 and 5 stars, particularly for seafood. We are in seafood country for sure.

Scallop pasta. Very good and it all went
Seafood stew! Crazy good. Not getting sick of seafood yet. Is that possible?
Street signs in Lunenburg have different sea critters

So excited tonight for tomorrow to be playing the premier course in Canada, the Paragon Golf and Country Club. It does not get any better. The Maritimes have been extremely wet, so praying for sunshine. We met an interesting couple at supper tonight and had fun with them. This lady had a jewellery firm that was national, Kamelia, with some interesting stuff. Good dinner conversation, as he was a golfer.

What we have found, is that Maritimers are extremely friendly and very courteous.

5 Replies to “CROSS CANADA MOTORHOME TRIP 2019 – NOVA SCOTIA”

  1. Catherine Chevalier says:

    Ha Ha You should think about cooking up some eel stew. According to the children in the book Prince Caspian, the Marsh Wiggle made delicious eel stew!

    1. We will take their word for it😉

  2. Rita Rivest says:

    We are enjoying your trip with you!! Great pictures.

  3. Therese C Collin says:

    Wow, I finally sat and looked and read all about your trip. Wonderful pictures and looks like you are having a great time. We went down east two years ago and loved it. Saw a lot of what you are seeing. Didn’t see the tidal bore that you saw in Moncton. We went to “the Hopewell Rocks” and walked on the ocean floor at low tide then went back later and watched the tide come in. Pretty cool. I hope to make it back east and do some more touring soon. Enjoy your trip.
    Therese

    1. We did not go back at high tide, but the info we were given indicated that it was 40 feet higher. Info provided by a friend today indicated that one of the most prominent rocks, The Elephant was destroyed last year due to erosion. The force of the tides is huge here.

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